Alyssa’s Fresh Look at Jewish Geography

Alyssa with new friends from Onward in Tel Aviv
Alyssa with friends from Onward in Tel Aviv

They say that everything happens for a reason: there is a reason for every person who walks into your life, every event that happens during it, and why you are where you are when you are.  I feel that between the three times I have been in Israel, the timing was not coincidental. I was here for a three-week leadership training experience in summer 2012, I went on Birthright in January, and I came back for even more this summer.  Each of my times in Israel has been very different, including the places I have stayed and seen and the people I have experienced everything with, yet one thing remained constant: I always tend to find people that I know in the most random of places.  Israel, unlike New York City, is not a forty-minute train ride away from my home in New Jersey; it is a ten-hour PLANE ride, a casual halfway around the world.  Though Israel is the Jewish homeland and is not the largest country in the world, the chances of two people being in the same place within the country are very slim.   How is it that every time I visit Israel, I always tend to run into old friends in the Old City of Jerusalem, the middle of the Negev Desert, in hotel lobbies, and even volunteering at a tomato farm? Two words: Jewish geography.

Everybody knows Jewish Geography as the concept that all Jews know each other and are somehow interconnected.  Yes, that encompasses the “Jewish” part of things.  However, we tend to forget the “geography” part, besides listing off names of people we know from your town.  Geography encompasses where in the world you are from as well as where in the world you are, and where better than in the Jewish homeland for Jewish Geography to come into play?  In the five weeks I have been here, I have seen 18 people I know from home, including an old friend from BBYO on the plane ride (we also met up one night in Tel Aviv), more friends from BBYO, a handful of friends on Birthright trips, and about four people that I went on my first Israel trip with.  That’s right, three years later we all ended up under the same roof in the same country where it all began, all participants in different cohorts of Onward Israel.

In 2012, five participants from New Jersey, California, Ohio, and Pennsylvania went to Israel on the same program, and in 2015, they all found themselves under the same roof at Onward Israel Connections Day.  Three years prior, the same love of Israel had been instilled into five different Jewish teenagers, which made them all want to live and intern in that same place.  Find me a happier coincidence than to run into a handful of people that you experienced Israel with for the first time right back in the same place, nonetheless all together.  It is pretty incredible how Israel ignites, fosters, and rekindles relationships with people in your life, and because of that I look forward to seeing who I find in the streets of Tel Aviv during these next three weeks.

More of Leor on Machon

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Leor (center front) with her friends on Machon in Israel

As I was looking out at the holiest place for the Jewish people with the sun beating on my back and my best friends surrounding me, I began to cry. In that moment, I felt so blessed to be where I was. Right then, I felt the closest to G-d that I have ever felt. Right then, I realized that this trip, my journey through Israel, is going to be a life-changing experience. Before I say anything further, I would like to take a moment to thank Hadassah for this amazing opportunity and making my participation on Machon possible through the Leaders of Tomorrow Award; I am forever grateful.

Now that we have finally arrived in Israel, I can finally write about all of the good stuff! After a ten hour plane ride to Israel, 52 of us landed cheering and singing Havenu Shalom Alechem. We got off the plane and immediately headed to an overlook over Jerusalem. From there, we began traveling down south towards the Dead Sea. After a long day all we wanted to do was sleep, but our trip organizers had other plans for us.

Before I describe anything else, I want to take you back a few days. Our entire journey started last Thursday at Camp Tel Yehudah. Everyone going on Machon finally came together from the various YJ camps that we were working at, and others joined us from home. We spent two days at Tel Yehudah bonding as a group and experiencing normal camp activities – we went on low ropes, experienced Shabbat and went crazy during rikkud (dancing) with the whole camp – but in the back of our minds, we were all thinking about going to Israel in just a few days.

The next morning, we woke up bright and early — we were so excited to start our trip. We headed to Ein Gedi where we took a long hike through the hot desert. At the end of the hike, we arrived at a beautiful waterfall. Our counselor described how holy Ein Gedi was. It is said that Ein Gedi is where King Saul and King David finally confronted each other and realized that their loyalty was more important than power. After the long and strenuous hike, it felt so refreshing to get into the cold water. The fun did not stop there. We hiked back and went straight into the Dead Sea.

After a great salty swim in the Dead Sea, we headed towards the Bedouin tents where we would spend the rest of the day and night. We got to ride camels, and we also learned all about the Bedouin culture. It was very interesting to learn about this unique culture within Israel, which I knew very little about before. We then had the best meal that we’ve had so far – we sat down on the floor like the traditional Bedouin and were presented with a platter filled with rice, potatoes and all kinds of meats, which we ate with our hands. It was absolutely delicious. Later that night, the entire group went out into the middle of the desert and stargazed. The sky was so clear and was lit up by thousands of stars, which you could see because there was no artificial light.

The next morning, Wednesday, we woke up at 3:45 AM. I know it sounds crazy, but we were going to Masada, and nobody minded because we were hiking up the mountain to see a beautiful sunrise. We were all so excited and when we got to the top we saw the most incredible sunrise. I did this same hike when I was 12 years old, and was very excited to do it again. I thought the first time was amazing, but this time it was even more incredible and meaningful. While on top of Masada, we learned all about the history of Masada and the people that lived there. We had an intense discussion about whether the decision to commit suicide was a courageous or a selfish act. Although we didn’t all agree, it was a very interesting discussion. After Masada, we went to Kibbutz Keturah, which was founded by a group of Young Judaens in 1973 and is a unique kibbutz which holds many of the same values as young Judaea. In 1990, my mom spent the summer at Ketura studying and working. It is so empowering how so many different people can come together to acheive a common goal.

For our night activity last night, we went to the sand dunes in the Negev. We played around and rolled in the warm and very soft sand. We then had the opportunity to sit by ourselves and reflect on life. It was such a meaningful experience to just look out into the desert where the Jews wandered for 40 years. We then broke into small groups and talked about what we each thought about during our individual time. Everyone shared their different feelings and we all felt more bonded together. Then, my small group spontaneously started singing the Shema together. It was one of the most beautiful and spiritual experiences of my life.

So far, this trip has been absolutely amazing. I have already learned so much about Israel’s history and culture that I didn’t know before and I am so excited to learn more. Israel is an amazing country, but experiencing it with my best friends, at this stage of my life, and on a program like Machon, is even more incredible. I cannot wait to see what the rest of this trip has in store for me and the people with me on Machon.

10 Hebrew Phrases Alyssa uses Often

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  • “Ani rotzah cafe kar eem kerach, bevakasha” – I want a cold coffee with ice, please!
    Anyone who has been to Israel knows that “ice cafe” refers to the slushy, Starbucks Frappucino-like drink that is more like a dessert than a morning caffeine fix.  Contrary to popular belief, “Americanized iced coffee” is available at Aroma and a multitude of other places — you just need to ask for cold coffee with ice!
  • “Eifo l’shirutim?” – Where’s the bathroom?
    This one is very important to know.  Though I’ve mastered the art of asking for the location of the bathroom in Hebrew, I can never understand people’s answers. Maybe it is time to learn the Hebrew words for “left” and “right”…
  • “Ani lomedet Ivrit b’universitah, aval ani lo medaberet Ivrit tov” – I study Hebrew at university, but I don’t speak Hebrew well.
    I struggle to hold a basic Hebrew conversation.  I can, however, tell you that my Hebrew is sucky in perfect Hebrew.  You win some, you lose some, nachon (true)?
  • “Cacha chacha” – So-so
    This is my answer when people ask me how my Hebrew is.  Slicha (sorry), its not tov meod (very good)
  • “Atah medaber Anglit?” – Do you speak English?
    Hey, at least I asked you in Hebrew.  That’s a start, isn’t it?
  • “Yesh li tabaot im hamsot?” – Do you have rings with Hamsas?
    I am on the hunt for the perfect hamsa ring, so I took my search to the next level by learning how to say it in Hebrew.
  • “AVOTIACH! ANAVIM! TOOTIM! TAPOOZIM! ESHCOLIOT!” – Watermelon! Grapes! Strawberries! Oranges! Grapefruits!
    If I learned nothing else in Hebrew class, I learned how to say my fruits.  I exercise my knowledge every time I go to a grocery store or shuk (market) by pointing and screaming.  It will never get old, I promise.
  • “Lo” – No
    If you were ever told that the word “no” is universal, you were lied to.  Here in Israel, when you are opposed to something, you say “lo.”  I have started to use this one instinctively; does that mean I am turning into an Israeli?
  • “Ani ohevet otach, Yisrael!” – I love you, Israel!
    Oh Israel, I love you and your beautiful sights, the fact that I can buy as much wine as my little heart desires with my real ID (which you don’t even ask for 98% of the time) while inside your borders, your hot soldiers, and basically everything else about you.
  • “Sababa, habibi” – Cool, bro
    Sababa is the Hebrew word for “cool,” and obviously its a hundred times as cool as the word cool is.  Habibi refers to a friend, but I always see it as “bro” or “babe.”  Was that translation sababa, habibi?

The Adventure Continues on Onward Israel

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Alyssa (right) with a friend in Tel Aviv

When I woke up this morning, I realized that I had left the United States three weeks ago today. Sometimes, three weeks feels like a year, but I feel as if I left New Jersey yesterday. I am already almost halfway done with this program, I have done so many great things with so many great people, and I still feel like my time in Israel is flying by. It is crazy to me that it has already been a week since I wrote my last blog post, but looking back on it, so much has happened, including exploring Tel Aviv on my own, traveling to two cities I had never seen, and of course, some delicious meals in between.

The week started like any other: I went to work on Sunday and Monday, and then went home to my apartment for the night. Speaking of work, that is going very well and I love YJ and the people who work here more and more everyday. The work is very interesting, ranging from writing these weekly blogs (hey!) to helping with the management of the Twitter and Facebook pages to interviewing participants on various YJ programs. I always feel interested and engaged, and I could not have asked for much more.

On Tuesday, our weekly group trip was to Hebron in the West Bank. As if the fact that we traveled to our destination in a bulletproof bus was not apprehension-building enough, there are more soldiers in Hebron than there are civilians. After being assured and reassured that Hebron is a safe city, I still was not buying it. It was one of those situations that you had to see to believe, and it ended up being a really cool place; I did not feel unsafe for a single second there and I am glad that I got to see it. We started the day with a tour of the Cave of the Patriarchs, then went on to listen to a speaker about the Arab-Israeli conflict who gave us more insight on the situations in both Gaza and the West Bank.

On Wednesday, I realized that I had not been to Tel Aviv since Shabbat, so I decided to take a little adventure after work. I got off on Allenby Street near Shuk HaCarmel, which is a very central location of Tel Aviv (if you ask me, at least… Someone else may shake their head at this). To me, an adventure is defined by ditching Google Maps and exploring without the iPhone glued to your face (to those who know me: please stop gasping and take a deep breath after that statement). I saw the street sign for Sheinkin Street, which I had been meaning to check out. Some people had described it as the “SoHo of Tel Aviv,” which is a bit of a strech, but it was still very up my alley. I stopped by at a candy pharmacy, which had syringes and pill bottles full of chocolate and various types of candy. No purchases were made, but an Instagram was taken. I do not think the lady who was working was very happy with me, but YOLO am I right??? I continued to walk, and somehow ended up at Dizengoff Center, which is a huge mall. Shockingly enough, I went in and shopped around. Though it was 17:00 (this is my attempt to immerse into Israeli culture, in addition to trying to use WhatsApp instead of iMessage) and my group had a Shakshuka Night planned at 19:00, I remembered that a dessert place on my Tel Aviv restaurant bucket list called Cookeez was on Dizengoff as well. Cookeez is Israel’s version of Insomnia Cookies, and if you ask me, it puts Insomnia to shame. A delicious chipwich was eaten and no regrets were had. Then I came back to Bat Yam and had delicious homemade shakshuka, a classic Israeli dish made of tomato sauce and sunny side up eggs, with the Northern New Jersey delegation two hours later, because life is short and dessert before dinner is beseder, tov, sababa, yoffi, and nachon, which all happen to be Hebrew synonyms for “ok” and “good.” I have not decided which to adopt yet, since sababa sounds coolest, but tov is one syllable. Decisions, decisions.

Thursday night was a celebration called Laila Levan, or White Night. Laila Levan is an all night festival that takes place all over Tel Aviv, and people of all ages are roaming the streets and having a fantastic time all through the night. Though my roommates Alyssa and Sara and I only lasted until about 4:30, we were joined by Alyssa’s friend from home on another program, her older brother who made Aliyah, his boyfriend, and his friend, and our little group had an amazing night full of laughs, dancing in the streets, going to the roof of Kikar Rabin (city hall), and you guessed it…EATING! The highlight of the night was the rooftop of Kikar Rabin: the views were amazing, and it was not open to the public so I felt really cool being able to get in. The night ended with a 3:30 AM trip to Benedict, a restaurant that specializes in… Are you ready for this… Eggs benedict. It had been on my bucket list, and though I expected to try it at 10:00 AM, there is never a wrong time for brunch. Plus, it is cheaper after midnight, and was delicious!

On Friday, Alyssa invited me to stay with her family in Netanya, a beautiful city a little bit north of Tel Aviv, for Shabbat. We stayed in a beautiful penthouse right on the beach and her family could not have been more nice and accommodating. It was an incredibly relaxing 36 hours, as we stayed until Sunday morning, full of rainhead showers, being beach and Jacuzzi bums, and the most comfortable bed in the world. We had a great time together, and I am so thankful for all of the great hospitality her family provided! That’s all I really have for today, but I am lehitragesh, or excited, to tell you about this upcoming week!

What it’s Like to Live in Israel Post-Birthright

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Hey, Jessie! Tell me a bit about yourself.
J: My name is Jessie Ziff and I’m 19 years old from Westchester, NY. I am going to be a junior at Penn State University, where I’m studying Human Development and Family Studies.

Greek life is a huge part of college life at Penn State so I joined a sorority– AOII. Of course, it is one of the few Jewish ones. Being in a Jewish sorority was important to me because I was raised in a kosher home and celebrating Shabbat each week. I have a 17 year old sister who will be attending Lehigh University after embarking on her journey to Israel for the year. I also have a 10 year old brother who will be going to Solomon Schechter next year after always being in the public school system.

Tell me, what brought you to Amirim? What has your Amirim experience entailed?
J: After deciding that I needed to be in Israel for the summer, I started researching different programs that would allow me to come here and intern for two months. I found Amirim and it seemed like a great fit. I am interning at The Peres Center for Peace, which is a non-profit organization founded by Israel’s 9th President, Shimon Peres. The mission of the center is to integrate Arabs and Jews to find a way to make peace.

Not for a split second was I nervous to come to Israel. I have never once felt unsafe here. I will say that transitions are really hard for me so after being on a structured trip for 10 days and coming directly here, I was panicked. The first two weeks were very exhausting and draining. I did not know how to get around or how to communicate. I was very homesick. Now that it has been some time, I am finding my way around and enjoying every second to the max.

The thing that I enjoy most about Amirim is the level of independence. Never in my life did I think that I would be able to get dropped off at an apartment in an area I don’t know at all and be able to figure it out. Yes, it took time, but now I am comfortable. I am excited that I was given this opportunity to grow on my own and I am eternally thankful for it.

What is a good reason that you would give your peers to come to Israel? Have you been here before?
J: I cannot give only one reason to come to Israel. The better question would be why would you NOT come to Israel? It is amazing. Absolutely amazing. Tel Aviv, the beaches, the museums, the land, the history, the people, The Kotel, Yad Vashem, the clubs, the food… should I continue? Israel is a secure place for me. I feel at home the second I land.

I have been to Israel four times prior to this trip. I came three times with my family, and once with a group of friends through my JCC on a penal exchange program. I stayed at Israeli’s houses, and they then came to NY and stayed with me. When I came in the past, I experienced nothing like I am experiencing now. I was on a strict program, either touring or with my parents in which I was not given freedom. I also have never been here for this long. I did birthright right before this, and again, why not go on birthright? Birthright was hands down best 10 days of my life.

Interning in the LGBT Community | Amirim

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Hey, Geoff! How old are you? Where did you go to college?
I’m  Geoffrey Sperling. I am 25 years old, originally from Crown Point, Indiana and I now reside in Austin, Texas. I attended Indiana University and graduated with a degree in Gender Studies with a minor in Sociology and Human Sexuality. I have a boyfriend of three years and two incredibly beautiful chihuahuas. I am a paraprofessional teacher for the New Braunfels ISD in New Braunfels, Texas and a part-time barista at a hipster café in Austin called Pacha.

Awesome. How did you hear about Amirim and decide to come to Israel? Where are you interning? What’s your favorite part?
I went on Birthright in December. It was a deeply moving experience and inspired me to return to Israel. One of my staff members from the trip, Sammi Cutler, works for the Jewish United Fund in Chicago and gave me a lot of information regarding programs that would allow me to intern in Israel. Young Judaea seemed to be the most inclusive of the programs offered, and would allow me to intern in the field of LGBT rights.

My internship placement is with The Gay Center in Tel Aviv-Yafo. I work in the culture department, and do a lot of translating for their social media platforms such as Facebook, their website, Wikipedia, etc. In addition, I speak to outside groups about the center and all of the services and programs they offer. For instance, last week I gave a speech to the Boston Gay Men’s Choir about the center prior to their performance in our courtyard that night.

The benefits of this program far outweigh the bad, and have given me a much richer (deeper) understanding of what it is to live and work in Israel. I have been to shops and clubs, to the north and to the south, to synagogues and the beach. It has truly been a blessing to be here, and I take a second every day to step back and appreciate this experience. I realize just how fortunate I am to have been given this opportunity and I try my hardest to give back and make a difference in the LGBT community here in Israel.

Why do you think it’s important to come to Israel? What have you learned about yourself?
Well, I came to Israel to find out how Judaism is connected to my life, now as an adult. I identify as being more culturally Jewish than religiously, and I felt it was only right to actually explore the culture of the Jewish people here in Israel. What I came to find was so much more than I could have ever dreamt. My own opinion of Israel was based on mostly western propaganda and biased media, but coming to Israel has completely changed my perception of the people and the country to one of overwhelming pride.

I feel more connected with my heritage than ever before in my life. I encourage anyone even curious about Israel to experience it. Being here will change you, and your perception of Israel indefinitely. There is no way, in my opinion, that you can come to Israel and leave the same person you were before coming. I believe that if you had told me this a year ago I would have laughed in disbelief, but it is the truth. There is something truly special and existential about this experience.